Cross post from the lounge because I didn't know of this group.

[rzemanfl]

Last edited Sun Nov 7, 2021, 07:55 PM - Edit history (1)

2010 Hyundai Accent I bought new, about 72K miles. The most reliable car I ever owned, now has a problem. Every month or two it will stall and refuse to restart until some time has passed, when it won't start it doesn't fire at all. After ten minutes or so it fires right up. It also sometimes starts a little hard, then the tachometer doesn't work. The tach works the next time I start it. I am thinking it is the computer failing. Since COVID hit it has been driven mostly on short trips although I did one trip of around 3K miles in the spring. Plugs and such should still be good. It mostly runs fine but I can't trust it and right now am unable to do much with it until I get some back surgery done in late December. Trading it on a new Hyundai is an option but I would rather avoid that. I need a reliable vehicle until my herniated disk is fixed and I recover from the operation.

Any thoughts or similar experiences, with or without results, would be appreciated.

ON EDIT- The problem was a defective crankshaft position sensor. It was replaced, the car runs really smooth now.

[Tetrachloride]

1. I will guess you need a pro estimate

Try to get 2-3 free estimates ?

I presume you are still in the fruity state south of Georgia.

If you were in Wisconsin, i can advise a lot easier. previous job took me to a lot of mechanics.

[rzemanfl]

2. I get to Wisconsin a lot. Moved here from there.

One daughter and the youngest of my grandchildren, who, as of yesterday is now an adult, live in Mad City. But I am not old or anything like that....

[Tetrachloride]

6. On hwy 51, Stoughton Road south of Buckeye Road, Clausen Automotive

west side frontage road, there’s a well known mechanic Clausen Automotive.

If the West Side or Middleton or Waunakee, I would ask my brother.

[rzemanfl]

14. The car is in Florida. My daughter lives in Madison, near Middleton. I remember the only Waunakee

in the world.

[Kali]

3. I would start with a free reading from an auto parts store

autozone, oriely's and see what they say. then maybe pay for a diagnostic at a mechanic. not the battery, right? that can cause some wacky starting issues.

72K is nothing on a modern car, whatever it is is probably worth getting fixed.

[rzemanfl]

15. Plus it is a Florida car, no rust. I might trade it in on a Kona or a Elantra. They no longer make

the Accent. Battery is about six months old.

[IbogaProject]

4. Dig deep on the internet.

Dig deep. These problems are not uncommon.

One possibility is the electronics on your starter may be overheating specifically a solenoid may not connect as a control circuit may not engage until cool enough. That solution is a shield to reduce heat gain.

Another area is the anti theft electronics may be getting confused. For that there may be a reset combo to retry w/o the wait.

[rzemanfl]

13. I have no anti-theft electronics that I am aware of. n/t

[IbogaProject]

20. Do you have a door clicker or a plastic thing around your key?

Do you have a door clicker or a plastic thing around your key? If yes to either there may be a control module that can get confused, there may be a reset combination of actions and buttons to clear and let the computer check everything with out waiting 10-30 minutes.

The other thing to check is your battery connection to your starter and any electronics between the two. What could be happening is a solenoid (a electronic switch) may get stuck the wrong way until things cool down. I have seen reports of a custom heat shield for some cars for that issue.

And again googling your problem may at least give you some leads, you're the only one caring about your car 24-7, so put in a little effort and you can save yourself some time and money before you go to the mechanic. I'm not suggesting doing your own work, just the research and troubleshooting.

A lot of these modern ghost like automobile problems are the automatic controls and their feedback to the computers.

[rzemanfl]

21. I don't have a door clicker. The top of the key is plastic. I am about to post what seems to be

the problem.

[discntnt_irny_srcsm]

22. So what did you find out?

[rzemanfl]

23. The problem was a defective crankshaft position sensor. It was replaced, the car runs really smooth

now.

[discntnt_irny_srcsm]

24. Glad to hear that.

Best of luck going forward.

[2naSalit]

5. I would think about...

Taking it to a shop where it can be diagnosed on a computer which will probably correctly determine the issue. It sound electronic and could be an essential component.

You could look on Google and see if there are service announcements about it, could be a recall and a free fix. Worth it to look.

[doc03]

7. It could be an overheating fuel pump. I had a Subaru

Justy a few years ago the same thing happened. It would be running fine then just stop. I had it towed to the dealer twice and it started right up when they went to work on it. The second time when I was taking it home it quit running a couple hundred yards from the dealership that's when they found it was the fuel pump. The fuel pumps are located in the fuel tank. That is why you shouldn't run your gas tank nearly empty the gas cools the pump.

[rzemanfl]

12. I always keep it at least 1/4 full. At the time of the most recent incident it was over 3/4.

The fuel pump doesn't explain the hinky tachometer, but I could have two problems, I'm lucky that way....

[doc03]

17. Those intermittent problems can drive you nuts. On another car I had a similar problem but it was

the coil that was opening up when it got hot. Now days most cars have a coil on each plug instead of one
for all of them though. Good luck.

[rzemanfl]

19. Thanks.

[mitch96]

8. I've had good luck with Dunedin Garage on Douglas.. He came recommended from a friend. nt

[rzemanfl]

11. Thanks. Hope you are doing well. I am not but it is fixable. It is hard to schedule surgery

because of COVID. People put things off.

[discntnt_irny_srcsm]

9. Things to listen for after it stalls:

Turn the key to on (that's on not start) can you hear a short whine, hum or low buzz? If not might be the electric fuel pump or maybe yours is just too quiet to hear.

When you turn the key to start, can you hear the normal sound of the engine cranking or is the sound much higher like it's running faster than it usually would when starting? If it's higher, the starter may not be engaging.

In the past that number of miles might have also warranted checking the timing belt.

Mostly this sounds electrical.

I agree with others here that suggested having the OBDII scan and paying for diagnostic check up.

Good luck.

[rzemanfl]

10. Timing belt was replaced at around 50K miles (although it is supposed to last 90,000).

No unusual noises. It just doesn't fire.

[discntnt_irny_srcsm]

16. Sounds computer (ECS maybe) or electrical.

Diagnostics probably best course.
Did this start after having some any work done?

[IbogaProject]

18. Check your battery & starter.

Lookup your symptoms along w model. See what years the car was the same to be able to search each of those model year combos. These problems are not uncommon.

One possibility is the electronics on your starter may be overheating specifically a solenoid may not connect as a control circuit may not engage until cool enough. That solution is a shield to reduce heat gain.